Showing posts with label kathmandu. Show all posts
Showing posts with label kathmandu. Show all posts

Monday, 23 October 2023

Pagodas for Shelter


Kathmandu, Nepal in the monsoon, Jul 2022

It’s that time of the year again where the Indian festivals start to pick up. Tomorrow is Durga Puja, a major festival for East India, and Anu’s family’s biggest festival. The rest of India knows it more as Dussehra and in Nepal, it’s known as Dashain.

We celebrate it by putting tika on the kids. Tika (sticking a paste of banana, uncooked rice and red powder on the forehead) is a Nepali tradition. Since Anu is partly of Gorkhali descent, that’s what they do. Since I already have some photos of our UNPLANNED 2022 stopover in Nepal sorted out in my computer, that’s what I’m gonna do. Post them, haha. And that’ll be one post done! Talk about quick-wins!

Last year, we made our first visit to our Malaysia home after 3 long years of the dratted COVID pandemic! It is the first time in 3 friggin years that we, trapped expats in the UAE, could go somewhere. Anywhere. Seeing that situation, the airlines company, decided to make a killing (when else would they recoup their losses of the COVID years??) Therefore, airfares shot up 4 friggin times of the pre-COVID fares! To keep the costs affordable, we had to make stopovers. We chose an Omani low-cost airline (SalamAir) which would take us to Dhaka, Bangladesh before getting on Biman (Bangladesh’s national carrier) to good ol’ KL. But then SalamAir cancelled our flight! YEAH, they fuckin did, a week before the flight date! – Their plane developed some technical problems, they said! (As if they had only 1 plane, ….or maybe they really did!) That drove us into a mad rush to find alternative, CHEAP, tickets to Bangladesh quickly, but there were none to be found. We eventually ended up with Jazeera Airways, a Kuwaiti low-cost airline who were famous infamous for their delays, (we found out only after we flew!) to fly to Kathmandu, Nepal where we would catch a connecting flight to Dhaka. There was a 5+ hour stopover in Kathmandu, so there should be no problem, although it would involve us going thru immigration, taking out our bags and checking in again. And then lovely Jazeera Airlines poured all that nice plan down the drain by delaying their flight by 5 fuckin hours! And thanks to them, we were in Kathmandu, in the monsoon season!

We’ve visited Nepal before, way back in the winter of 2010. And we’re back, to see how Nepal looks like, in the monsoon. Monsoon isn’t a time when tourists visit Nepal, because of landslides, rain, mud, clouds and thunderstorms. But do we have a choice? Luckily for us though, it turned out pretty good, except for our shoes getting soaking wet, and doing a marathon in Kathmandu’s airport trying to catch our flight, whatever it takes. (We failed as you could see). Here’re the pictures.


Whew, safely at our hotel, Hotel Moonlight, after the fiasco of trying to catch our flight at Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan Airport. Don’t get me wrong, everyone was nice at the airport, customs, immigration, security, passengers… They let us thru, cutting across queues and procedures. We got our on-arrival visas and cleared immigration and security in a breeze, but our bags took forever to come out. And then we embarked on a mad rush pushing the loaded trolley from the Arrival Terminal to the Departure Terminal, and this had to be done outside, on an upwards ramp. By the time we got to the check-in counter of our airline, I was red, panting and soaking with sweat. And there was NO-ONE at the counter. Or the airport office of the airline. Well, we reached at exactly the flight departure time. Later, we learnt that all the staff were at the gate assisting boarding. To cut the story short, the airline’s (Biman) manager, God bless him, booked us on the next day’s flight out, with only a cancellation / rebooking fee (of USD40 per person if I remember correctly). That’s a far cry from considering us as no-shows and getting us to book fresh new tickets!


Anu, Hotel Moonlight, Thamel, Kathmandu, Nepal – See the cloudy monsoon skies?


A bird’s eye view of densely-packed Kathmandu from our hotel. Here’s an older post with more views


A street-level view of Thamel, Kathmandu. The streets are dotted with shrines, temples and entrances to hidden courtyards


Entrance to a street-side temple – the Nardevi Temple (sez Google Maps)


A courtyard with some shrines – Yatkha Baha (thank you Google Maps, what can I do without you…)


Kathmandu’s Durbar Square – that’s where we were heading to. I remembered it as a nice place to chill out during our last visit in 2010. Wanna see how it changed after the 2015 Earthquake. Thankfully, many of the buildings are still around, or maybe re-built. There’re still signs of rubble and scaffolds in the streets, I think from the rebuilding process


A hidden god, with scary fangs!


Kathmandu’s Durbar Square in the monsoon


It’s raining. Luckily, there’re pagodas all over to hide from the rain. Doesn’t stop water from soaking our shoes though


Never mind the rain. Devotees offering prayers to Kala Bhairava, the main deity of the Newars and by extension, the protector of Kathmandu. Behind, a temple is under construction


This pagoda looks new. Must be newly reconstructed. Notice that pile of old stone rubble in the front?


Another courtyard with a stupa – Shree Ghah Chaitya (yup, sez Google Maps)


Finally, time for a Nepali dinner. We found this restaurant, the Paleti Bhanchha Ghar, between the Durbar Square and our hotel. Anu, sitting in front of a painting of the Kumari, the living child goddess of Nepali tradition

Happy Durga Puja! Happy Dussehra! Happy Dashain! And incidentally, this festival coincides with the Taoist Nine Emperor Gods Festival in Malaysia, so Happy Festival to the Malaysian Chinese celebrating this as well!

Thursday, 31 January 2013

Valley of the Newars


A view of Kathmandu, Nepal from the Swayambhunath Stupa

Wow, time flies! I’m intent on squeezing 1 or 2 posts in before the end of the month (which is today)! This post on Kathmandu has been in my mind since last Jan, right after my post on Nepal some time after New Year last year. (Somehow, New Year always brings back memories of Nepal since we spent the New Year there in 2011).


Around Kathmandu’s Durbar Square

Anyway, Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, is traditionally inhabited by the Newa people. The Kathmandu valley used to be the base for 3 Newari Kingdoms, Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur until the Gorkha Shah Dynasty (last ruling dynasty of Nepal) defeated the Newars in the mid eighteenth century.




Patan’s (aka Lalitpur) Durbar Square, note the Newari multi-tiered pagodas

The Newars are a mixed race. They were said to be originally of Tibeto-Burman ethnicity but have somehow evolved into a mixed race due to intermingling with the Nepalis of Indo-Aryan descent over the past few centuries. The most unique aspect of the Newars to me, is that they seemed to have developed an entirely separate architectural and art style. So much so that some people say, its influence is actually the basis for the multi-tiered pagodas that we see in so many East Asian countries like China, Korea and Japan today.


Bhaktapur’s (aka Bhadgaon) Durbar Square, Nepal


Somewhere in Bhaktapur, if I’m not mistaken, this is the Dattatreya Temple

The Newars, who are mostly Hindus, are surprisingly crazy about buffalo meat (or buff as it’s known in Kathmandu). While the Hindus in India are completely shocked at this idea (buffalos, cows, they’re the same aren’t they?), the Newars are openly proud about their love for buff. Our taxi driver who took us on a tour of the 3 Newari ancient capitals told us that they slaughter 2000 buffalos per day in the Kathmandu valley! I dunno how true that is, but the buffaloes should seriously think about migrating to India.


The Svayambhunath Stupa, Kathmandu


The Bodhnath Stupa (aka Boudha)


Walking around Boudha


Shrines near the Pashupatinath Temple (the two-tiered pagoda behind), the main Hindu temple in Kathmandu, Nepal

Thursday, 5 January 2012

A New Year in the Himalayas


The Swayambhunath Stupa in Kathmandu, Nepal

Happy New Year folks! May 2012 not be what the Mayans think it would be! May our peaceful existence be allowed to continue for some time to come, may the disasters and economic crises not get any worse than they already are at the moment. May you and your loved ones have peace, love, success and happiness! May our health be in tip-top condition. And May God continue to bless all of us.

And here're some pictures of our last New Year spent on the fringes of the great Himalayas in Nepal. How I wish I can go on a holiday right now, than slog it out at this Project here which seems to be going no where no matter how hard we try...


Going on a walk in Pokhara, Nepal


Anu & Amrita shopping for beads in the streets of Kathmandu


Little monster has his own agenda while mommy's busy


Yours truly, enjoying a Nepali dinner in Kathmandu


Nope, this is not in Nepal, this was our Christmas Eve buffet dinner at Windsor Hotel in Delhi, compliments of Jet Airways for screwing up our flight


Some of the many temples near Kathmandu's Durbar Square


Kathmandu's full of narrow streets dotted with temples, shrines and hidden courtyards, wonderful to wander around and get lost in for someone like yours truly


The pigeon-filled Seto Machindranath Temple in a hidden courtyard in Kathmandu


The Bodhnath Stupa (or Boudha as the locals call it), another famous Buddhist site in Kathmandu


Monks frolicking around Bodhnath


The Durbar Square at Bhaktapur


Patan's Durbar Square at dusk

Saturday, 17 December 2011

Justin Year 2

Our little monster turned 2 recently. He’s smarter now at dismantling / destroying things, he’s smarter at getting what he wants by being really adorable, when he wants to be, kissing us, when he wants to and showing his sad tearful face, if we scold him. Otherwise, nothing much has changed. He has approximately 11 teeth. We force feed him to ensure his growth matches the other kids of his age (and it seems to be working, but we’re reducing his food portions now since our friend advised that we’re feeding him too much). He doesn’t yet know the meaning of fear, meaning that growling dogs in the dark are nothing but an attraction for his curiosity. He knows that falling and getting himself hurt is painful, but that doesn’t stop him from running clumsily on uneven gravel strewn roads, doesn’t stop him from running round and round in circles until he falls over dizzily, and doesn’t stop him from climbing whatever is climbable for his little hands and legs. He can say a few words now like papa, mumma (for mummy), judtin (for justin), ba (for bye), shoe, oben (for open, used for requesting us to open water bottles, and food containers), heyo (for hello), koung-koung (grandfather), ayi (mother, in the local Marathi language), hawa-hawa (from a popular Hindi song), etc.

Here’re some photos of him of the year and before.


Justin, mid-eastern style, 5.5 months old, Istanbul, Turkey


Justin with Turkish travel agent, Istanbul. Justin’s a hit with the local crowd. Somehow or rather, most Turks, if not all, love small babies


With the fairy chimneys, Cappadocia, Turkey


Picking out a ball, slightly more than a year old, Pune Central Shopping Mall


13 months, Kathmandu, Nepal


13.5 months, Mahabaleshwar, Maharashtra, India


Hippie styled baby, Daund


The baby godfather, Scarface, at 19 months, Daund


A picnic in the hills, at our road project stretch, near Ravangaon


Sharing a buffalo, 21 months, Amanora Mall, Pune


Busy on the phone in front of our house, Daund


Botak boy, 21 months old, Phoenix Mall, Pune


Tigger with friend, 22 months


Happy Deepavali!