
On the river Ganges, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh

The Ganga Arti (prayers to the Ganges) in process at Dasaswamedh Ghat
This is just about the best place you can visit in India – Varanasi (also popularly called Benares), the holy city of the Hindus, the place where many Hindus would want to die in (…die at, …aww, what the heck, if any of you know the correct preposition to use, please tell willya?), since dying here is supposed to release one from the cycle of birth and death, or moksha. Great huh, you can finally die, …for good.
Besides dying, Varanasi is actually great for many other things. You can take a gulp of the water from the holy Ganges, wash away your sins, and in the process kill yourself and attain moksha (it’ll be a miracle if you survive anyway, don’t believe me take a look of the Ganges here yourself). You can take a dip in the holy Ganges and while away time watching the multitude of things that can float on water sail by, boats, garlands of flowers, lit offerings to the Gods, a stray bra or underwear, empty plastic bags and bottles, unidentifiable floating objects, crows having a good time dining on the carcass of a buffalo… You can have a swell time tracking across the 2km stretch of Ghats lining the revered Ganges river visiting hidden temples, learning about the different types and costs of wood used for burning up dead bodies, chatting with the holy men, and the not-so-holy, who’ll try to sell you stuff, show you stuff, or pry stuff (especially money) out of you. You can explore the narrow lanes and hidden alleys near the ghats and play hide-and-seek with the cattle (who’ll take up the entire width of some of the alleys), dogs, goats, monkeys and dangerous looking people, all the while holding a hankie to your nose, so that you won’t faint from the exotic smell of incense, dung, urine and garbage. You can shop till you drop at the streets and streets of shops (believe me, the bargain shoppers (aka women) will love this place, but luckily for us men, the smell of this place will hopefully limit the natural tendencies of our better half huh?). You can practice your oratory skills, in Hindi if not in sign language, with the uncountable rickshaw-walas who’ll try to ferry you to any place, except the place you wanna get to, all for the sake of showing you the sights of Varanasi, or more likely to waste your precious time, piss the shit out of you, and get extra money for ferrying you back to the same place you’ve started from so that you can get another rickshaw, who’ll try to play the same trick on you, and the cycle goes on…
So, wanna experience India at its best? Visit Benares.

A bored security guard at Munshi Ghat

What a local hotel boss does when he’s bored…

Somewhere near Manikarnika Ghat, Varanasi

The rickshaws of Varanasi, …Yes, it’s always this congested (…ok, maybe not at 3am in the morning, but who’s gonna be up to find out huh?)
…but come to think of it, on a less cynical tone, and to be fairer to the city, I actually kinda like Varanasi. Amid all the chaos and hustle and bustle, Varanasi has its subtle charm, like something surreal, some lifestyle of the ancient past which is still very much alive today. This is where you can catch the soul of Hinduism (…if you can somehow ignore the greedy, and the crooked), this is where you can experience the real India with all its colours, customs and culture, this is where a lot of foreigners come to seek spiritualism, jam music and just, chill out. I think there’s hardly another place with as much connection to its past and to its after-life than Varanasi, the city where people come to die…

An offering to the Ganga...