Valley of the Newars

A view of Kathmandu, Nepal from the Swayambhunath Stupa

Wow, time flies! I’m intent on squeezing 1 or 2 posts in before the end of the month (which is today)! This post on Kathmandu has been in my mind since last Jan, right after my post on Nepal some time after New Year last year. (Somehow, New Year always brings back memories of Nepal since we spent the New Year there in 2011).


Around Kathmandu’s Durbar Square

Anyway, Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, is traditionally inhabited by the Newa people. The Kathmandu valley used to be the base for 3 Newari Kingdoms, Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur until the Gorkha Shah Dynasty (last ruling dynasty of Nepal) defeated the Newars in the mid eighteenth century.




Patan’s (aka Lalitpur) Durbar Square, note the Newari multi-tiered pagodas

The Newars are a mixed race. They were said to be originally of Tibeto-Burman ethnicity but have somehow evolved into a mixed race due to intermingling with the Nepalis of Indo-Aryan descent over the past few centuries. The most unique aspect of the Newars to me, is that they seemed to have developed an entirely separate architectural and art style. So much so that some people say, its influence is actually the basis for the multi-tiered pagodas that we see in so many East Asian countries like China, Korea and Japan today.


Bhaktapur’s (aka Bhadgaon) Durbar Square, Nepal


Somewhere in Bhaktapur, if I’m not mistaken, this is the Dattatreya Temple

The Newars, who are mostly Hindus, are surprisingly crazy about buffalo meat (or buff as it’s known in Kathmandu). While the Hindus in India are completely shocked at this idea (buffalos, cows, they’re the same aren’t they?), the Newars are openly proud about their love for buff. Our taxi driver who took us on a tour of the 3 Newari ancient capitals told us that they slaughter 2000 buffalos per day in the Kathmandu valley! I dunno how true that is, but the buffaloes should seriously think about migrating to India.


The Svayambhunath Stupa, Kathmandu


The Bodhnath Stupa (aka Boudha)


Walking around Boudha


Shrines near the Pashupatinath Temple (the two-tiered pagoda behind), the main Hindu temple in Kathmandu, Nepal

Justin’s Other Vocabulary

Celebrating Justin’s third birthday, with his favourite jellies in place of a cake (which he absolutely dislikes by the way)

Before it is erased from our memory for good, here’s more of Justin’s current vocabulary – Maya, Ofa, Pamphoon, Lolo, Tractra, Obody, Gether, Pam-Pam, Blathoon, Cummer, Popai, Barm-Barm, Chicken (respectively Mommy, Sofa, Perfume, Roller (and all construction equipment), Tractor, Everybody, Together, Pampers, Bathroom, Cucumber, common word for Tomato and Potato, Donkey (from the word Big Barn Farm, which used to air on TV), Kitchen)

His extinct vocabulary includes – Bainya, Shwight, Fweet, Cow, Torchai, Cockoch (respectively Banana, Light, Sweet, Elephant (which he insisted on calling Cow previously), button or beads (from the Cantonese word for belly button), Chocolate (and also cockroach)


Justin, the artist


Justin with my PD, Warren at Pune