
Grounds of the Aga Khan Palace, Pune, Maharashtra, India
Went to Pune for a day last week, to bring niece Karishma to Dubai, to help out with chores, especially since our second baby is due anytime now. For the time being, baby is just ‘baby’, but we’ve sort of reconciled that it’s gonna be a boy, like it or not. (But of course we’ll love him to bits. He’s our son after all). We’ll come up with a name, sooner or later.
Not much has changed in Pune since we left in Feb last year. The airport’s still small (but sometimes small is good). The city roads are still as bumpy as ever. The bus stops are still located in the middle of the roads (yeah, this is how it is in Pune, the cars, trucks, what-you-have, all travel on the side lanes, while the bus lanes and bus-stops are on where you will usually find the fast lanes! When you get off the bus, you’ll find yourself right smack in the middle of the highway, which you will then have to cross to get to the shops, houses, etc.) The favourite food is still limited to deep-fried varieties of bread and potatoes, and extra-spicy curries.
Staying here (or more accurately, 80km away from here, in Daund) for 2.5 years has made us quite fond of the city, with quirks and all. So much so that after we moved to the Pune area, Pune has become something like a second base in India for Anu’s family – sister, niece, nephew all stayed, worked or studied here at one time or another.
Pune’s not a bad city. Smaller (than Mumbai and other megacities), so more manageable traffic-wise. Pleasant climate and milder weather changes (unlike Rajasthan or Delhi). Nice (and cheap) grapes and wines (the best plus point of Pune in our opinion). Quite a few up-to-date malls, hotels and restaurants (
see earlier posting). And I heard that the road connecting Daund to Pune is mostly done, so it’ll take less than an hour to reach now (used to take 2 friggin hours for 80km!). So here’s a selection of some sights of Pune as a small tribute to this city we called home for 2.5 years. Maybe we’ll meet again later on, who knows? But that’ll be another story.

Aga Khan Palace, Pune – the Aga Khan is the head (or Imam) of the Nizari Ismaili Sect, a branch of Shia Islam and a direct descendant of the Prophet Muhammad. During India’s colonial times, the Aga Khan held a status similar to that of a Prince i.e. he was granted gun salutes by the British, the only religious leader to have such a status. This palace was donated to the people of India in the 70’s by the reigning Aga Khan, who now resides in France.

Samadhis (monuments honouring the dead) of Gandhi’s wife and secretary at the Aga Khan Palace – the Aga Khan Palace in Pune is famous for being the place where the British put Mahatma Gandhi, his wife and his secretary under house arrest for 2 years during the Indian struggle for independence. Gandhi’s wife, Kasturba Gandhi and his personal secretary, Mahadev Desai died here during the 2 years of internment.

Road leading to the Osho Ashram (aka Free Sex Ashram), Koregaon Park, Pune – this ashram (spiritual retreat) is famous for its Guru’s views on sex, and for his lavish lifestyle when he was in America. (Osho or Bhagwan Shree Rajneesh was for a time known as the Rolls-Royce Guru. He was said to have 90+ Rolls-Royce in the US, given to him by his many followers in the west). Osho was a controversial figure. He moved back to Pune after being deported from the US due to some immigration violations. The ashram is now one of Pune’s top tourist attractions. Nope, we didn’t enter the ashram. It costs a couple of thousand rupees, or more, but it includes robes, a whole day’s programme of meditation (or was it 2), and a mandatory HIV Test. I dunno how true it is, that you can have free sex in the ashram, but why else would they need the HIV Test for huh?

Mutha River, near the Shaniwar Wada Fort, Pune – Pune is a city of rivers and bridges. I dunno how many river crossings there are, but it sure feels like a lot when we travelled across the city.

A view of Pune during the monsoon from nearby fort, Sinhagad (
see previous post). Note how green Pune is.

High spiky doors of the Shaniwar Wada Fort, Pune – To keep out extremely tall men… Or it might just be for the elephants

Garden of the Shaniwar Wada Fort / Palace

Mandai, a famous landmark in Pune – I think it’s a fruit and vegetable market
And how can an Indian city not have a street bazaar? Here they are: -

Fashion Street, Pune – what do you think they sell here? Hint: look at the name

Tulsibaug (pronounced Toolsee-Baag, meaning Basil Garden in Hindi), Pune

Last, but not least, here’s the patron god of Maharashtra, Lord Ganesh, in Tulsibaug – You can see Ganesh temples and shrines all over Pune and the Ganesh festival in September each year (Ganesh Chaturthi) is one of the biggest festivals for the people here.