Thursday, 16 June 2005

Malaysia House, Mizoram


Our house (aka Malaysia House) in Aizawl, Mizoram


Driveway, Malaysia House


The house doggie, Bobby

Calcutta, Steam-cooker of India


The prettier part of Calcutta - Victoria Monument

Fancy being steam-cooked? Welcome to Calcutta (aka Kolkata), city of joy and unimaginable humidity. Sweating is the cultural identity in Calcutta, especially when you’re trying to fly to Mizoram and the flight gets cancelled (which happened to me, and a lot of other people who are very used to this, since it’s a pretty common occurrence). Alliance Air / Indian Airlines (the only airlines flying to Mizoram currently) seem to like cramming their passengers into their sun-baked aircraft for about an hour before the plane takes off, with minimal air-conditioning. All very refreshing and invigorating. Don’t need any steam-baths around here, everyone can sweat a few litres before take-off.


Victoria Monument, Calcutta

Scenes from New Delhi


Rajpath, the main thoroughfare of New Delhi leading to the Presidential Palace


India Gate, Delhi's Arc of Triumph


Fountains flanking Rajpath (aka the Public Baths of New Delhi) - fancy a dip?


A view from the Old Fort (Purana Qila), Delhi

The Sage of Haridwar


View of Haridwar, North India, from Mansa Devi temple

Don't ask me what that red shrine's for, I've no freakin idea! Neither does my Indian colleague.

The Yoga Capital of the World


Ram Jhula at Rishikesh, Uttaranchal, India

Rishikesh teems with foreigners, all here to practice yoga, and experience spirituality (most probably with the help of grass, hehehe). The place to be for musicians, first made famous by The Beatles, I think. Sting visits occassionally.

Himalayan Snow





Auli, Uttaranchal State, North India

The Road to Badrinath


Somewhere in the Garhwal Hills, between Karnaprayag and Joshimath


Outskirts of Joshimath


The Road to Badrinath (this was the nearest we managed to get to our desired destination - blasted landslide blocked the way!)

Nightime at Gurgaon


Gurgaon, view from the office

Monday, 9 May 2005

India Update: Deep into the Jungle

Hi mates, nothing much’s changed lately here in Delhi. The weather is kinda oven hot now, the mosquitoes are still around, my waistline is still hovering around the 33” mark, I still can’t fit nicely into my 34” jeans (I could fit in actually, but because of my smaller than desirable bum, 34” pants / jeans don’t really look nice on me). I can no longer wear my entire range of 32” pants / jeans (the buckle / button can’t seem to meet). They DON’T sell 33” pants / jeans here. I am not exercising as much as I’d want to. My back has a slight chronic ache (which I don’t think is serious, probably caused by my 3 day ‘epic’ driving excursion into the hills). The movies on tv still get interrupted by tons of advertisements and frequent blackouts (the apartment I stay in has standby generators to take care of this fortunately. Unfortunately, the cable provider may not have such reliable generators). My colleagues from KL have been visiting more frequently (that explains why I’ve not been that frequent at updating this blog).

And my boss just told me a few hours ago to pack up my stuff to head deep into the jungles of North-East India (in Mizoram state wedged between Myanmar and Bangladesh) to help out with the workload, temporarily. Temporarily in my boss’s vocab may mean anything from a week to a few years. Of all times, now, when I’ve gotten kinda used to the absolute bliss and freedom of not having a boss around, far away from every other office. He said that I might have to stay till the monsoon season. That usually happens sometime around June, so hopefully I can think of an excuse to come back hehe. Flying off to Calcutta on Tue evening, then off to Mizoram on Wed morning (12 May).

I think the jungle does not have very good connections, internet-wise, heck even telephone-wise, so I guess the next post will have to wait for lil while. Till then, take care.

The Birthplace of the Ganges


Harki-Pauri, Haridwar (Gateway of the Gods)

Recently (on the Easter weekend which so happened to coincide with a major festival in India called Holi), I tried to visit one of the sources of the holy Ganges River. The Ganges begins its journey in the state of Uttaranchal (aka The Abode of the Gods). The state border is about 5 hours drive from Delhi. It has 4 holy sources, all in the same state: – 1. Badrinath (source of the Alaknanda River); 2. Kedarnath (source of the Mandakini River); 3. Gangotri (source of the Bhagirathi River aka Ganges after it joins with the Alaknanda); and 4. Yamnotri (source of the Yamuna River). All these rivers are formed from glaciers in the Himalayas (high mountains, …and snow, what more can you ask for huh?) My mission was Badrinath and a national park next to it named …Valley of Flowers, thrilling ain’t it? I decided to close the office and force my one and only colleague to accompany me on the trip.

(Note: In Hinduism (or the version I understand of it), the Ganges was supposed to spring forth from a toe (ya, you read correctly) of Vishnu (one of the Hindu Gods). It came down to cleanse the dirty earth of the ashes of the dead (at that time ashes had accumulated to such an extent that nothing could grow, ….and I thought ashes make great fertilizer…). It first had to flow through the hair (ya, you read correctly again) of Shiva (another Hindu God), who stayed (stays, who knows) in Mt Kailash (in the Himalayas), so that the torrent of the mighty Ganges would be weakened and not wash everything into the ocean (was there already an ocean at that time, …..who knows? Hindu friends, pls illuminate me if I’m wrong.))

Trip summary - list of accomplishments: -
- Did not reach Badrinath (it only opens in May! …besides a landslide blocked the road).
- Did not reach Valley of Flowers (same road as above, and park opens late April).
- Got a chronic backache from driving for 3 days from daybreak to dusk on bumpy roads (with occasional stops) (still having the backache, but I think it’s recovering slowly now). Colleague doesn’t drive and doesn’t read maps.
- Had two punctures in 3 days.
- Got ‘Holied’ (Holi is a major festival esp in North & East India where people throw coloured powder / water on others – I had yellow powder plastered on my forehead, luckily it was powder, not coloured slush).
- Stuck in a traffic jam for more than 2 hours at the state border crossing (the result of Indian driving habits – 6 lanes of cars / trucks/ tractors / bullock carts / buses / bikes etc, each side, having a face-off on a two lane provincial road – it was a wonder we could get thru in 2 hours. We finally decided to just park at the side (forming the 7th lane) to watch the buffalo man quarrelling with a car owner, border official quarrelling with everyone else, etc. The patch we parked our car so happened to be overgrown with ganja plants, …don’t need to go to the golden triangle in Thailand for this stuff, it grows everywhere in India, especially the hill states, nope, didn’t pick any)
- Got stuck in a queue for about an hour and half waiting for a cable car up to a temple (that you can walk up slowly in about 30 mins – we’ve bought the tickets before we realized how bloody long the queue was. We decided to walk down although the ticket was for both ways – took us at about …15mins with a stop to snap some photos)
- Got lost in New Delhi at 1am while returning home (told you my colleague doesn’t read maps)
- Played with Himalayan snow (after driving for 45mins on the bumpiest roads I’ve ever driven on – that’s one way, it’s another 45mins down the same road).
- Managed to get a room to stay at 10.30pm in the hills (where every place was about closed) because of the major public holiday and hill people like sleeping early.
- Was lucky enough that we had enough fuel to last one whole day of driving in the hills, thanks to the public holiday when every pump station was closed or out of fuel (…wonder why they still bother to open??)
- Was lucky enough to be able to reverse all the way out of the muck of a road where the landslide occurred.
- Was lucky to find a shop to fix the punctured tyre after the first incident, the puncture happened again later that day.
- Was lucky that the spare held good till we got home.
- Bathed in the Ganges at the point where the Alaknanda joined the Bhagirathi to officially form the Ganges – and in the process got ALL my sins absolved (isn’t this just wonderful?), and got blessings of long life for me, and my family (that was after parting with 100 rupees and after repeating word for word whatever the priest / guardian mumbled – the only thing I understood was "100 rupees or 200 rupees" after I asked how much, …was thinking of blurting out 50 rupees, but thought the better of it and just paid the cheaper of the 2 options, wonder what sort of blessings I’d get if I paid 200 rupees, blessings of eternal life maybe?)





Devaprayag, where the Bhagirathi River becomes the Ganges after meeting the Alaknanda River