A Northeast Christmas

On the grounds of the Cathedral of Mary Help of Christians, Shillong, Meghalaya, India

It’s way past Christmas, but what the heck, here’s a glimpse of our recent trip, a Christmas in Northeast India, with family and friends. "Deck the halls with boughs of holly, fa la la la la, la la la la…" Enjoy, and may peace be with you.


Smile! Anu with her sister, Rekha (right) and niece, Sonia (left) at the Catholic Church of Mary Help of Christians in Shillong

We decided this time, to take the long way home, i.e. by road (as bad as it may be) from Guwahati (main city of Assam) to Silchar (South Assam) via Shillong (Meghalaya). Not really recommended at a time like this, with the ‘amazing’ conditions of the road between Khliehriat, and Malidor on the Assam border. I’ve driven on this road (on return trips) twice before, first in 2006 and then in 2013. This time, we took a taxi, and the road was just horrendous (not that it was good in 2013, but that’s nothing compared to this time) especially from Lumshnong all the way to the Meghalaya-Assam Border. The potholes were humongous. None of the stretch had anymore asphalt on it, and it was road dust all the way (pity the villagers). Many of the bridges had their steel reinforcement bars exposed, heck, there was even a bridge with a friggin hole thru it! And trucks were clogged to the brim on both sides of the road, wherever they were allowed to linger. Numerous stretches were under maintenance, no, make that under construction. (There’s no way it could be maintained). Heck, this road could have won the World's Worst Highway if there was such a category in the Guinness Book of Records. Hopefully, construction would complete soon…


Another Shillong church, the All-Saints’ Cathedral, Shillong


The interior of the All-Saints’ Cathedral, Shillong


Putting up Christmas decorations in the Church of Epiphany in Mawlynnong, the so-called Asia’s Cleanest Village! It was coined by an Indian magazine called Discover India. I dunno how they measured cleanliness, but Mawlynnong was indeed neat and nice! And peaceful, and worth a visit. Bravo, keep it up!


Inside the Church of Epiphany, Mawlynnong, where just 10 days after we visited, some numbnut of a social influencer, went into the church and shouted out ‘Jai Shree Ram!’ (a chant celebrating Lord Rama, an Indian god) and posted it on video. Of course, it created outrage, which I think was just what that jackass wanted. (Publicity, you know?) If he’s so gung-ho, let him do it in a more prominent church, or a mosque, in Pakistan…


Christmas back home! In Fulertal, Anu’s home village in Cachar District, Assam. Anu’s mother and sister, Rekha on the main road in Fulertal on Christmas Eve


Merry Christmas!!! Jayden with his Boju (grandmother) at Fulertal’s main road, on Christmas Eve, 2024. This place is a melting pot of people from the North East. There’re no clear dominant tribe or race. Each village is different. For example, in Fulertal, Anu stays in Nepali Basti, a Nepali or Gorkhali village. Directly adjoining it on the east, is Hmarkhawlein, a Hmar (a Mizo subtribe) village. Further down the road are Naga, Kuki and Khasi villages. On the west of Anu’s village is the urban part of Fulertal which are Bengali, Naga and Manipuri. Right opposite Anu’s mother’s house is a Manipuri Shiv Temple, and directly adjoining this, is a big mosque, with a shrine of a Muslim saint, revered by Muslims and Hindus alike. The Hmars are mainly Christians, and therefore there’re churches. With such a mix, people here have learnt how to co-exist with one another. Although this is part of Assam, Bengali is the official language here, not Assamese. I hope this peace prevails continuously.


One of the 2 churches at Labac Pailapool’s Christian Basti (Christian Village). This is the Presbyterian Church. We visited the other church (the Baptist Church) on Christmas Day. Pailapool is the next big town away from Fulertal, 4km away, towards Silchar


Christmas Day service and performance, Labac Pailapool Baptist Church. The sermon was in Bengali, and the dance performance was in Nepali, nice! The pastor is the one holding the phone on the right of the photograph. The performers were all from the house of Anu’s college mate and friend, Moni. The church asked us to stay for a Christmas feast after the service, but we decided to visit Anu’s friend instead. Thank you so much for your invitation!


At the house of Anu’s friend, Moni (right most, with baby in hand) at Pailapool’s Christian Basti. The family who are Christian Nepalis did not attend church on that day, as they had a really young baby. Anu telephoned her friend to find out which church they attended, and we headed there for Christmas. Moni was a Hindu Manipuri, but converted to Christianity after marrying into a Christian family. Her husband is Manoj (third right), and the two young girls in the middle of the photo are their niece (in green), and elder daughter (in pink). They're the ones who performed a dance at the church, earlier on


At Anu’s elder sister’s Manju’s (left) house. Anu’s family is Hindu, but what the heck, what’s wrong with having a Christmas tree for Christmas! We were eating chhangban, a traditional Christmas treat of the Mizo and Hmar tribes, which Anu loves (sorry, forgot to take any photos). It’s made of slightly sweet sticky rice, wrapped in leaves and steamed. Anu’s mom is half Mizo, by the way


Boju (meaning grandmother in Nepali) – Anu’s mom, surrounded by some of her grandchildren, Justin, Jayden, Sonia and Mahi. Let’s see, she now has umm… 13 grandchildren and 2 great grandchildren! (She herself had 8 children by the way)


Christmas decorations at the Asapalli English School. That’s the school at the end of the road where Anu mother’s house is. Many of the English medium schools in Fulertal are missionary schools


Finally, a family picture. Smile! At a random church in Cherrapunji (Sohra), Meghalaya, India. Cherrapunji was once the wettest place on earth. It’s lost that to its neighbouring village, Mawsynram, which is also in Meghalaya, India

That’s all for now. There're so many other family pics, but that'll have to wait. See ya soon.